Category Archives: Menemsha

Village Spotlight: Menemsha

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For all of the ‘glitz’ the Vineyard offers…(and by ‘glitz’ I mean manicured, rose covered streets in old whaling villages)…the village of Menemsha offers the most charming absence of glitz this side of the Mississippi.

It starts with a long ride down Chilmark’s North Road winding by farms, up and over gently rolling hills. And then the road sort of stops…and you get to the water. The village sits right there on a thrust of land, called a bight, extending out into the ocean.

The first thing you’ll see on your left is the famous Home Port restaurant. A great place to take the family and get a homestyle, full, seafood dinner. And across the street, you’ll find great burgers at the Galley and everything else you need at the Menemsha Market.

Head down the street and you’ll find a few great boutiques and stores full of Vineyard treasures. And then, you’ll come to one of my favorite places – The Bite. Hands down the best fried clams on the island. This clam shack was also featured in the movie Jaws, much of which was filmed in Menemhsa.

Most notoriously, Menemsha is known as a fishing village. As you head down the bight, you pass a few seafood shops where the fish is the freshest you can imagine. Literally, if you look through the front door, you can see out the back – to the dock where the boats are pulling up and unloading that day’s catch.

As you pass the fish shops, stay left – and you can walk along the docks to see all of the fishing boats, their equipment and, most likely, some real live fishermen.

The end of bight features a beautiful public beach…a favorite for picnics, drum circles and the most beautiful sunsets you’ve ever seen.

Image courtesy of jlrotner

My Martha’s Vineyard Fisherman

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At my house, you don’t have to look very far for some real and authentic Martha’s Vineyard-ness. You see, I happened to have married a Mayhew – the Island’s founding non-native – family. And my hubby Jonathan’s a longtime commercial fisherman to boot.

So, I sat him down and got him to spill the beans so that I could share my personal slice of this island with all of you…

Anne: How long have you been fishing on Martha’s Vineyard?

Jonathan: I grew up in a fishing family. So I’ve been at this for 50 years – since I was 7. My father and grandfather, and my great grandfather too, they were all commercial fisherman.

Anne: What kind of fish do you mainly target?

Jonathan: My favorite species to fish is harpoon swordfish. But in my life, I’ve caught them all: sea scallops, squid, cod, haddock, yellow tail flounder, grey sole, monkfish, fluke – my father was a lobsterman – bay scallops, quahogs (clams). Honestly, it would be easier to tell you what I haven’t caught!

Anne: Tell me about the camaraderie of the fishermen on the Vineyard?

Jonathan: We actually have great camaraderie here. In other places in New England there’s a lot of conflict between fishermen of different species – because their gear can get mixed up – nets and traps can get tangled, etc. But on the Vineyard – we supply bait to each other and we have good communication about gear use – so this doesn’t happen.

We even formed the Martha’s Vineyard Duke’s County Fishermen’s Association. We work together to preserve the environment of our waters and our fish. For example, we’ve agreed collectively not to use harmful gear – like the gill net.

Anne: You’re a Mayhew – the founding non-native family on the Island – what does this mean to you?

Jonathan: I’m an 11th generation Vineyarder…that and 50 cents will get me a cup of coffee on the docks of Menemsha!

There’s always been discussion about the wash-ashores being the newcomers – but the truth is that we were wash-ashores too – just a little earlier than everyone else! The only true natives on the island are the members of the Wampanoag Tribe. Some people put stock in how long your family’s been on the island, but most of the Mayhew’s don’t put any stock in it at all. My dad used to say, ‘The mayhews are like a hill of potatoes – the best of them are underground.’ Today there are at least 20 families above ground.

Anne: What’s your favorite thing about fishing in Vineyard waters?

Jonathan: It had always been the freedom of making your own choices and the challenge of making a living out of fishing here. But that’s changed a lot with government regulations. Some of them are good, don’t get me wrong – but they’ve really hurt the small fishing communities along the east coast. Maybe it wasn’t their intention, but it’s been the consequence. We’ve lost a lot of access to the big fisheries, the corporations. It’s been painful and destructive. Similar to agriculture and the damage done to the small farm. Sadly, it’s been a long fight with little satisfaction.

Anne: Where’s the best place to take kids to fish?

Jonathan: Up-island, I have to go with off the dock’s in Menemsha. Dutcher’s dock is public, has easy access, not a large expense – all you need is a small rod and a pack of frozen squid. You can also fish off the jetties. Another option is beach fishing – you need a little more knowledge (like sunrise and sunset are best). And even if you don’t catch anything, it’s still fun.

Down-island I’d hit the bridges between Oak Bluffs and Edgartown. You can get striped bass and bluefish, and if you’re lucky you’ll get a bonita – they’re fast action, big fight, you need a good rod and reel.

Anne: And the best place for a seasoned fishermen?

Jonathan: I’d go with the charters. There are fantastic fishermen taking folks out all over the island.

For a list of great Martha’s Vineyard fishing charters click here.

Ten Must Do’s During Your Martha’s Vineyard Vacation Week

A week on Martha’s Vineyard can pass in the blink of an eye.  There is so much beautiful scenery and so many activities you could fill many weeks with great experiences.  Here are a few that you should consider.  Even if you just want to lounge at the beach, take some time to travel to various beaches and enjoy the sites along the way!

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  1. Chilmark Chocolates
  2. Aquinnah Shops
  3. Menemsha Sunset w/ Lobsters on the Beach
  4. State Beach bridge jumping
  5. Kayak with the Trustees – Cape Pogue (chappaquiddick)
  6. Tour a Lighthouse
  7. Shop for fresh veggies at Morning Glory Farm or West Tisbury Farmers Market
  8. Walk on the beach and then Ice Cream in town one or more evening(s)
  9. Carousel in Oak Bluffs, even if you don’t have kids, take a ride!
  10. Biking from town to town

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Hope to see you out there next season!